My first tortoise install

I've FINALLY finished wiring all the detector and force-red circuits, and panel LEDs for them, all that stuff. My dwarf signals are complete and ready to install, but aren't in yet.

But - one of the panels also needs to control some of the turnouts for a wye remotely, and since I wired all the LEDs and switches for that, I thought it was finally time to tackle a Tortoise install - for a code 75 small-radius Peco wye turnout.

I used a method from Rich's methods, using some metal tubing and spring wire. I like this because I got to lay track w/o worrying about drilling large holes under each turnout as I went.

So - I've got the first one done now, but not wired; it seemed to go pretty well. I underestimated how difficult it'd be to actually get it screwed into place upside down - and this was the probably the easiest of the places I need these!

Oh well - challenges are good, right? I'll try and get a photo posted eventually.

Wiring signals now

I've been slowly working my way through wiring detectors and LED indicators in my panels, for the various hidden-track sections of the layout.

Tonight, I started working in earnest on wiring a number of 2-light dwarf signals (Oregon Rail Supply), which will be installed at the entrance to all the hidden track sections. These are a bit more work to wire than I expected - as you have to figure out where to physically locate the resistors for the LEDs (I opted for below the layout - meaning I had to wire the LEDs with a short length of wire, then the resistor(s), then more wire which would attach to the 'real' wiring below the layout somewhere).

Anyway - it's going smoothly now. I debated for a long time between normal block signals, and the much smaller dwarfs, because the RGS never had any signals (of course). I settled on the dwarfs because I don't want to 'model' block signalling, but just want to give my operators some indicator of whether they can proceed into the hidden blocks or not. So I kinda have block signals, and kinda don't, if that makes any sense.

Hopefully I'll post some photos once they're built & installed.

Goose 4 to operate?

According to this posting, apparently the restoration of Goose 4, currently underway at the Ridgway Museum, will be a restoration to operating condition. And, Telluride has apparently made an agreement with the museum to let them run the Goose once a year. This is different that the original posting on the museum site, which was only for a cosmetic restoration. Hopefully the posting referenced above is true!

This is big news - Goose 4 was the last of the remaining Geese to be restored, and was thought to never operate again. When this restoration is complete in 2011, all 6 remaining geese will be operating, and the original Goose 1 recreated and also operating. And then there's RGS #20, undergoing a very extensive rebuild in Pennsylvania, and when done will operate again, and in better condition than she probably ever was on the RGS.

Most of the Ridgway panel wiring done...

Here's a couple shots of the inside of the Ridgway panel, showing the wiring for the block-detection LEDs and force-red circuits for the remote signals protecting those blocks.

A friendly alien is keeping careful watch.

Still slowly wiring

I'm still slowly working thru the wiring of various panels, LEDs, and all the inter-connections to the detectors. Having a detector board in one town, but wiring LEDs and sometimes force-red circuits in other towns, requires a bunch of wiring between the towns, and that just takes time.

I did take a break over Labor Day weekend (which was really beautiful here in the midwest) to gather up a pile of unbuilt kits and get them sprayed w/ base coats and a little weathering - just so I can work on lettering and finishing them over the winter, if I want. With no spray booth, it occurred to me that if I wanted to finish up these rolling stock kits in the winter, I'd better get the spraying part of the work done now! Which I did.

So - back to wiring during my layout work times.